I must confess: Like most Atlantans, when I head to South Carolina, I visit its coastal cities to dip my toes in the Atlantic or head to Charleston to soak up some “cult-cha.” But recently, I took the road less traveled through the historic heart of South Carolina, and was blown away by the richness of what I found. If you’re feeling up for a roadtrip, here’s my hot list of things to do.
1. HANG OUT WITH LOCAL ARTISTS
People have been crazy for clay in Edgefield since the late 1700s. The most famous local artist was Dave the Potter, a slave who worked in a plantation pottery yard called “Pottersville,” and often inscribed short poems or couplets on his work. I learned all about Dave and Pottersville stoneware at the Edgefield Pottery Museum, where I met resident artist/historian Stephen Ferrell and his assistant Ed Redmond. If you fall in love with the stoneware, commission Ferrell to create a custom piece for you. 803-637-2060; edgefieldpottery.com
Around the corner from the museum is Jane Bess Pottery. Bess’ candy-colored clay works are designed to be functional, so only food-friendly glazes are used on the pitchers and plates. Pick up one of her palmetto tree ornaments as an inexpensive souvenir. 803-637-2434; janebesspottery.com
Roughly two and a half hours northeast of Edgefield, in Lancaster, there’s a whole crew of creative people to discover at Bob Doster’s Backstreet Studio, Gallery and Garden. You’ve probably seen Doster’s work — he created the three-story, metal sculpture that soars through the elevator area at Lenox Square’s Saks Fifth Avenue store. His studio is filled with miniature models and jagged portions of works in progress, complex metal-cutting machines and student-made collaborations. Next door, he has a gallery of outsider and folk art, ranging from Cherry Doster’s funky, funny “Trophy Wives” to Keith “Little Bear” Brown’s traditional Catawba Indian pottery. Don’t miss the eclectic sculpture garden, which has some shady spots for quiet contemplation. 803-285-9190; bobdoster.com
2. EXPLORE LIFE IN THE WILD, SOUTH CAROLINA-STYLE
I’m not a hunter, but I have to admit that I had a blast playing the virtual reality hunting game at the Wild Turkey Center and Winchester Museum in Edgefield. If you’re a roadside attraction junkie like I am, this museum is a gold mine. It’s dedicated to the restoration, management and hunting of the wild turkey, all five breeds of them. The dioramas exploring the evolution of turkey calls and how generations of hunters have stalked the wily birds are fun and educational. There’s also a theater where you’re immersed in the sights and sounds of a spring forest at the crack of dawn, waiting for turkeys to come down from their roosts. (Thankfully, there’s no Bambi moment where anything gets shot.) Plus, there’s a 100-acre outdoor education center with nature trails and a wetland habitat site for them to explore, as well. 803-637-3106; nwtf.org
It’s difficult to picture what life must have been like in pre-Revolutionary War America, when our ancestors were carving a life for themselves out of the wilderness. But you can catch a glimpse of it at Historic Brattonsville, a 775-acre historic site two and a half hours north of Edgefield. Costumed interpreters share what life was like, both in the plantation house and in the slave quarters from the 1760s to the late 19th century. Parents can download an online scavenger hunt designed to help kids imagine what life would have been like. Adult film buffs can create their own scavenger hunt to discover which areas of the museum were used as backdrops for Mel Gibson’s film The Patriot. 803-329-2121; chmuseums.org/brattonsville/
Seventeen miles east, in Landsford Canal State Park, the Catawba River literally blooms every spring. Extremely rare Rocky Shoals Spider Lilies grow in patches off rocks in the middle of the water. Weather permitting, you can explore the river by kayak or canoe. Any time of year, it’s an easy hike to the canal and back. Other amenities include a playground, historic structures and a small museum. Take a piece of the park home with you by purchasing a copy of Spider Lilies, a natural history of the park, photographed by local artist Bill Price. 803-789-5800; southcarolinaparks.com/park-finder/state-park/916.aspx
3. STAY IN STYLE
On the way from Edgefield to Historic Brattonsville, you’ll find The Farmhouse at Bush River, an Irish-themed bed-and-breakfast in Clinton. Five cozy rooms ($130-$160/night), an Irish pub in the basement and a working alpaca farm are just some of the treasures you’ll find here. It sits on 40 acres of farmland, which provides most of the organic produce Chef Janet Henley incorporates into her gourmet breakfasts. Cooking lessons, in-room massages and alpaca yarn (harvested here) also are available. 864-833-3881; bushriverfarm.com
Kilburnie, the Inn at Craig Farm is the oldest house in Lancaster County. Each room ($150-$200/night) is equipped with a hydrotherapy tub and lovingly decorated with period furnishings and artwork. After lounging on the piazzas and wandering the inn’s nature trail, you’ll understand why innkeeper Johannes Tromp left his high-powered job as general manager of one of New York’s most prestigious restaurants. 803-416-8420; kilburnie.com
On your way back, swing by Summerville and check into Woodlands Inn, a Mobil Five-Star, AAA Five-Diamond resort (rooms start at $200/night). If you don’t feel like lounging in your oversized room, there are several elegant public spaces for curling up and reading a book, playing a game or taking afternoon tea. Chef Nathan Whiting creates exquisite menus for the inn’s casual and fine-dining restaurants using fresh, local ingredients. 843-875-2600; woodlandsinn.com
