MORE THAN 70 SHOWS in seven days. That was New York Fashion Week 2018 earlier this month, where designers such as Malan Breton, Telfar Clemens, Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta, Gabriela Hearst, Marc Jacobs, Alexander Wang and a host of others introduced their fall lines.

Malan Breton

Take Breton, the onetime “Project Runway” contestant, for example. The Taiwanese-born designer, who lives and works in New York City, launched his namesake label in 2005 and does menswear, womenswear, outerwear, accessories and bridal wear.

Breton, 44, is known for his theatricality and artistic flavor. His new fall collection delivers depth, soul and literary references and draws its inspirations from Edwardian and Merlin tarot imagery, Chinese astrology and the mythological Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse (Conquest, War, Famine and Death).

“This collection,” he says, “has been a journey of self-realization, a point of gaining one’s hope back in humanity. Rebuilding one’s shell, one’s armor, one’s heart. Love lost, valor, and watching gluttony and greed change humanity for the worst.”

Malan’s latest designs stay true to his Asian roots, using opulent color, exotic Swarovski embellishments and antique techniques of weaving, embroidery and dyeing.

He uses chinoiserie-inspired fabrics — silk organza, silk tulle, silk brocade, re-imagined kimono fabrics and Chinese brocades that he toughens with shearling, leather, tweed, angora, feathers, glass beading and tourmaline. Also present are sustainable elements, like pieces of recycled bottles used as spangles.

His collection is not for the faint-hearted, but it’s ready for battle.

Several trends from NYFW 2018 are likely to show up in your neighborhood in the not-too-distant future. Among them:

  • Leopard print coats.
  • Romance created by frills, florals and lace.
  • A nod to the 1980s with big shoulders, neon colors and over-the-top styling.
  • Womenswear that conjures modern swans.
  • Outfits with matching blanket scarves.

Consider yourself warned.

:: contributed to this article.


About E. Vincent Martinez

E. Vincent Martinez is a fashion and lifestyle expert and the creator of Fashionado, a fashion, lifestyle and trend website. He was born in Havana, grew up in Miami, earned his B.F.A. from Miami’s Barry University, trained at the Penland School of Crafts (North Carolina) and earned an M.F.A. in photography from the Rochester Institute of Technology (New York). He’s a full-time professor at the Art Institute of Atlanta and the founder of “Doggies on the Catwalk,” an annual fundraiser that pairs celebrities with service dogs from Canine Assistants in a runway show.

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